Local ales, hearty food and friendly locals
Another fine pub walk, offering a very different experience, can be found along the north Norfolk coast at Wells-next-the Sea.
If you walk along the quayside of this small town expecting to find a pub on dry land, you’ll be disappointed. Instead, turn your gaze to the water, where the Albatros is moored. The Albatros is a delightful boat, which used to be sailed by a Dutchman Ton Brouwer across the North Sea from the Netherlands.
The ship lays claim to having been Europe’s last working cargo ship before the huge container ships took over. Now it is one of England’s most unusual coastal pubs, featuring local ales, good food and even live music.
The bar below decks is cosy; on a day of light winds, the deck itself is a superb place for a sundowner. You can explore the coast north or south of wells-next-the sea, looking out for deer inland and seals offshore. Three kilometres in either direction is sufficient.
Another excellent choice is to explore the North Yorkshire coastline between Robin Hood’s Bay and Ravenscar. The pub with which to bookend this walk is Ye Dolphin on King Street at Robin Hood’s Bay. You can tell this is a good pub because, in a part of the coast popular with tourists, it remains equally frequented by locals. The food is hearty and they serve real ale (beer that continues to ferment and brew in the cask from which it is served).
The return distance for the walk is 12km: check the tide times and you can walk one way along the beach, the other along the Cleveland Way coastal path.
Don’t be surprised if you see hikers unable to wait for the pub, sitting with their boots off on the beach and toasting one another with beer or fizz: this is a sure sign they have just completed the coast-to-coast long-distance trail from St Bees on the west coast to Robin Hood’s Bay!
By Mark Rowe